I'm going to guess that it is also very rare. Tug on the wires looking for any loose ones, or replace the switch to eliminate the problem. The ground wire should also be connected together in this manner, but to the ground terminal on the switch. A: The quick answer here is this. So blacks to blacks, whites to whites and grounds to grounds using marrette wire connecters.
From the second light to the next two plug boxes would I use 14 two wire cable again? It's killing me and I'm nearly at the point of giving up. Some other things to be aware of: Most home wiring is either 12 or 14 gauge, corresponding to either a 20 amp or a 15 amp circuit, respectively. Wire as suggested, but if you can't switch either light on then you will need to remove the red wire from the terminal block and connect to ~ on the switch, and vice versa with the remaining red wire. Probably just going to put the flood lights on an old fashioned motion activated system. You want to control them from a wall switch instead of having to find and pull the chain for each. I put stops in the switches so noone turns them of by mistake. The question now is, at night I will likely dim the switch, how will that affect the flood lights? Have you looked at the micro modules that can go behind the switch? These are popular for zone lighting, such as single tap for the entire room, double tap for one zone and triple tap for a different zone.
Use MathJax to format equations. An absolutely amazing, but emotional story, you sound like a great guy. Normally this is my Dad's job to talk me through stuff like this, but he's taking a much needed mini-vacation right now! Just added 4 ceiling fixtures to my basement and successfully connected them to a single switch, which I had to relocate as the old one was behind the door really. This one is currently on a motion sensor with regular bulbs, but would like to do the same thing so that I can activate them whenever my heart desires! No real need for 3 power supplies here, so I simplified. Remove the wires attached to the switch by unscrewing them from a terminal screw or pressing a screwdriver in a marked slot to release them from the push-in holes. You'd have to have two wires running from the switch to feed the fixtures - one wire going to each fixture.
If you are servicing and changing out fixtures, it's safer, because if the switch is off, there's no power to the fixture box. Hids would be nice, but not something I am getting into at the moment. They… RobinWinbourne: Looks like has found exactly what you need anyway… Hopefully they do an add-on switch for the other end of the 3-way circuit? I have a 3-gang box, and I'm interested in combining 2 of the existing single-pole light switches in the box into 1 switch that controls both lights simultaneously. For a while I used the , but they frequently fell off of my Zigbee network and would stop responding until they were reset and reconnected. It doesn't matter how many timers reach their set point, as long as one has I want the beacon to be on. Switch again, the cam rotates another 60 degrees, closing the circuit to the second light.
I have many switches but bought one 29. Wire A: Goes from power source to light At the light: Wire A White connects to Light Fixture White Wire A Black connects to Wire B White marked as hot Light Fixture Black connects to Wire B Black Wire A Ground connects to Wire B Ground connects to ground. A picture is always worth a thousand words. I'd rather not have to purchase 2 timers, and the box itself does not have room for 2 bulky timers anyways. So the auxiliary is not a load control switch. A picture is always worth a thousand words.
The basement is not finished so I have great access to all ceiling joints and current fixtures. Both fixtures need to get the same amount of voltage. Double click turns A on, Triple click turns B on. I didnt do the math, but if this is true about that being 43 amps, then no, 1 relay is not enough. As for the comment above: I agree that simple things like these can be done safely with someone with half a brain.
You can run more than one relay off of the same switch though. But the bottom line is, if its your home electrify away and don't worry about possessive electricians. If you hear relay clicks, then it uses relays. Connect the 6-inch length of wire to the green ground terminal. This summer in my own project, my electricians informed me that nowadays, the feed is run to the switch box, and never to the fixture box.
I have been puzzled over my switch for some time. Do I know anything else about the code that applies to what I just described or if what I described fits to code? So this article will explain the easiest way to connect multiple light fixtures to one switch. You either use a socket adapter if that fits, is aesthetically acceptable and meets the load specs for the lanterns. Thanks everyone for the responses, i kinda thought there should be a second relay. One lamp would be green and the other red not that its relevant.
The newer strings stay lit even when one or more bulbs go out. I would also connect my ground wires to the switch box, octagon box, and device box. Just using the multiple clicks as different functions. You need to find the two lives that were fed from the two dimmers and just combine them in the same terminal. You run a black and white wire in from the bottom of the switch box from the panel. I was referring to running the hot wires load , all together to the relay. So this would work fine on a 15 amp breaker, depending on what else is on that circuit.